The Secret Tupelo Trail

11/25/11

I paddled upstream from the Bateman Bridge with Harry from Ghost River Rentals. I had to wait about 30 minutes for Harry while he put in a group at Lagrange. As I waited, I decided to explore the opposite bank from the access. Because the trees were now bare, I could see an immense backwater on the other side. I paddled up a small canal under the bridge to find that beavers had built a dam that caused the backwater. The water on the other side of the dam was at least a foot higher than the canal were I floated. I turned back and saw that a john boat with a motor was putting in. Harry arrived shortly afterwards. Harry had a beagle with him that he had found tangled in briars at the LaGrange access. We waited for the men to launch their boat. A group of kayakers arrived as we waited. Harry decided to use a canoe, which I consider difficult to paddle upstream. However, he needed the extra room for the dog. 

The paddle through the grasslands was easy, and Harry kept up with me while we talked. A motor boat passed us as we neared the line of cypress trees. Once we reached the trees, the current increased. This is said to be the fastest natural stretch of water on the river. Harry fell further behind until I could no longer see him. I talked to him by phone. He said that the dog jumped out of the boat and he turned back to look for it. I continued ahead alone.

I followed the right channel (left and right are determined by one facing downstream) through the cypress trees and over the stronger rapids. Gradually, the current slackened as I reached the sand bar at the mouth of Mt. Tenna Creek. I stopped here for a break. I was amazed by the clarity of the water coming out of the creek. I could see cypress logs buried in the bottom of the clear pools. I took some pictures and headed into Spirit Lake. I followed the southern shoreline until I found the South Lake. I could see the ghost tree and stopped to take pics and text Harry. The white wood of the ghost tree stood out against the cobalt blue sky. I noticed that one of the limbs connected to the remaining arm to form a triangle of blue sky. 

I continued into the band of tupelo trees and followed them into the ghost river section. I could move easily between the trees, but I did have to back track a couple of times. This is were we considered making a new trail. I prefer to keep it as a “secret trail” meaning I don’t want to nail signs into living trees. Nailing signs into dead trees isn’t the best idea either since falling wood might clobber anyone below. I would like to create a “virtual” trail using GPS coordinates. I followed the band of tupelo trees until I saw a red diamond of the upstream wolf pack trail. I followed the trail upstream hoping to reach stop #5 before I had to turn back. I saw a large crested woodpecker that I hoped beyond reason would turn out to be the extinct ivory bill woodpecker. I tried to follow it but could not keep up. Then I heard its call and I could tell that it was definitely a pileated. Only an hour of sunlight remained so I decided to return to Bateman. I followed the blue signs of the canoe trail and was surprised when I reached stop # 5. My secret trail had put me much deeper into the Ghost River Section than I had realized. There is a definite opportunity for creating a trail from the Ghost River to the South Lake.

It was starting to get dark so I paddled continuously. I reached Spirit Lake where I saw a variety of bird life including great blue herons, wood ducks, cardinals, wrens, woodpeckers and vultures. I took short cuts in the lake to make better time. Using short cuts and the Secret Tupelo Trail is only for experienced paddlers. 

The sun disappeared beneath the lowland hardwood forest as I exited Spirit Lake. As I moved into the cypress rapids know as the Devil’s Terrarium, I was surprised by young buck. He waved his white tail and vocalized a distress call.